In the first part of this guide, we talked about the various types of candles that you can create at home and the different types of wax you need to make them.

In this article, we will discuss the materials and tools you need to create candles at home, which moulds to choose, and how to organise your workspace.

In the third and final part, we will go through the process of creating candles at home together.

Here’s the index:

What do you need to make candles?
Melting containers for various types of candles
Choosing the right wick
About colours and pigments
Choosing the right mould
Kits with everything you need to create candles at home
Organising the workspace

1. What do you need to create candles at home?

Wax

Certainly, wax is the basic ingredient you need to create candles at home: Hobbyland has many types of wax in store, each with unique characteristics. If you are starting from scratch, we suggest you read here before placing your order, where we discuss the different types of wax.

Melting containers and wax heaters

Wax has a relatively low flash point (from 160°C upwards), so it is essential not to exceed this temperature. That’s why it’s better to heat the wax in a water bath using an aluminium container inside a pot of water, or to use a double boiler. If you want something more professional, you might consider an electric heater: there are various sizes available. Here you can find various types of equipment (water baths and containers of various shapes and sizes).

Warning: the melting process should always be monitored personally; never leave wax unattended on a hot stove!

Wicks

One of the most intriguing challenges when you want to create candles at home is finding the right wick. When choosing, you will need to consider every aspect of the candle: shape, size, type of wax, colour, and scent. If you are just starting, you can follow the guidelines on wicks a little further down.

Colours and pigments

There are two types of colours for wax: dyes and powder pigments.

Dyes, in liquid form or in sticks, are generally used to completely colour (even internally) the candles. These dyes behave in wax like sugar behaves in water: they mix with the melted wax and dissolve perfectly. However, they have a lower resistance to ultraviolet rays: this means that the candles may fade in colour over time.
Powder pigments, on the other hand, have great colouring power and resist well over time; they are especially suitable for colouring the surface of white dipped candles.

However, be careful: the fact that they are in powder makes them more resistant but also more difficult to work with: they dissolve more slowly than liquid dyes and must be mixed carefully. Additionally, if the candle is not coloured carefully, the residual traces of pigment can hinder combustion. And, after all, a candle that does not burn well is not a well-made candle… Keep in mind that in liquid wax, the pigment tends to settle at the bottom, so you must continuously mix* before starting work.

Important: do not use coloured wax crayons to colour your candles. They do not blend well with the wax, clog the wick, and compromise proper combustion.

Wax fragrances

Wax fragrances are synthetic blends based on essential oils designed to withstand the flame of the wick.

You should add fragrances according to weight percentages between 3 and 10% depending on the type of wax you use. For example, 6% fragrance on 100 grams of wax will be 6 grams.

As a general rule, you should add candle fragrances at a temperature between 70 and 80°C. If added at higher temperatures, you might “burn” the fragrance, compromising its final aroma, while adding it at lower temperatures risks “sweating” the aroma, which would compromise the proper combustion of the candle.

Always check the flash point of the fragrance: in some cases, this may be at temperatures lower than 70°C. So how do you do it? You test: do tests to find the right compromise for pouring temperature.

The pouring temperature of the wax with fragrance inside the moulds or containers varies depending on the type of wax. As with all things: try, experiment, test (always safely and with quality materials!). No advice will ever replace your experience.

And essential oils? We advise against using essential oils to scent candles. Most of them tend to “burn” when poured at high temperatures, and even adding large quantities, the candle will hardly have an intense fragrance.

Moulds or containers

Hobbyland has a vast assortment of candle moulds, made of polycarbonate, metal, and silicone, ideal for making any type of candle. If you want to make jar candles or tealights, you will also find a good selection of containers.

Thermometer

The thermometer is an essential tool for candle making: the melting temperature of the wax and the pouring temperature can significantly affect the final result. Hobbyland has a specific glass thermometer with a protective cage, suitable for being suspended in the melting wax container.

2. Melting containers for various types of candles

Dipped candles

You will need containers at least 40 cm tall, to place in a larger container for the water bath. For beeswax candles, you need at least two containers; keep in mind that more colours of wax require a separate container for each in which the candle will be dipped to create the different layers. At Hobbyland, you can find both aluminium cylinders and the container for the water bath. You can also find a specific “water bath” (stove) that keeps the wax at the right temperature.

Moulded candles

If you need to melt wax for moulds and are using a single colour, it’s better to use small wax melters, which are easy to handle. You will also need: thermometer and moulds made of polycarbonate, metal, or silicone.

Hobbyland offers a wide selection, and you can also create a custom mould using the silicone rubber line.

Always check the pouring temperatures on the product label.

3. Choosing the right wick

The wick is a fundamental element in candle creation: without the right wick, the candle will burn poorly and little. And what kind of candle is it if it doesn’t burn well?!

A candle with the right wick will have these qualities:

A continuous flame with a constant size. The flame will not emit sparks.
When lit, it will form a “pool” of wax at the flame without dripping.
The container will have a moderate temperature.

Unfortunately, there is no magic formula to determine the correct wick: the ideal solution can vary based on the wax used, the size of the candles, and the type and amount of fragrances and colours used. Only your experience and continuous experimentation will give you the answer.

In addition to the wick, you may need wick scissors and tweezers.

To help you get started on the right foot, here’s a brief overview of our wicks and their most recommended uses:

Round wick: Made of pure cotton, with a paper core, ideal for container candles and tealights. You can use it with paraffin, wax beads, or soy wax.
Flat wick: Made of pure cotton, braided and soft. It is used for cylindrical, conical, or twisted candles. It can also be used in candles with irregular shapes, figures, characters, etc., that is, when you want to avoid dripping as much as possible. The flat wick is suitable for paraffin and mixtures of wax and stearin, but not suitable for beeswax.
Natural wick: Eco-friendly, made of a mixed fibre of cotton and linen, this wick is specifically designed for vegetable waxes and all soft filling waxes, where fragrances are used in high percentages. It is not treated with chlorine-based products or chlorine derivatives and is not made with materials harmful to health.
Pre-waxed wick:

Natural, with a wick clip, made of cotton with a linen core, waxed with soy wax. It is suitable for candles with a diameter of up to 80 mm.
Round stiff wick with clip, for powder, gel, or traditional candles. Ideal for candles up to 80 mm in diameter.

Let’s summarise:

Wick type	Container candles	Freestanding candles	Tealights
Round wick with paper core	✅
Flat wick		✅
Natural wick	✅	✅	✅
Pre-waxed wick	✅	✅	✅

Wick sizes

There are different sizes for each type of wick based on the diameter of the candle.

Round wick

No. 4: candles with a diameter of up to 50 mm.
No. 6: candles with a diameter of up to 80 mm.
No. 8: candles with a diameter of up to 100 mm.

Flat wick

No. 12: candles with a diameter of up to 20 mm.
No. 24: candles with a diameter of up to 40 mm.
No. 48: candles with a diameter of up to 50 mm.
No. 72: candles with a diameter of up to 70 mm.
No. 105: candles with a diameter of up to 100 mm.

Natural wick

No. 6: candles with diameters of up to 40 mm.
No. 10: candles with diameters of up to 70 mm.
No. 12: candles with diameters of up to 100 mm.

Calculating the diameter for the wick size

The first thing to consider is the diameter you need. Here are some examples of how to calculate the diameter:

In a conical candle with a base of 10 cm, the median diameter will be 5 cm, and consequently, you will use a wick for candles up to 5 cm in diameter.
If you have a spherical candle of 8 cm, you will use a wick for candles up to 4 cm in diameter.
For a cylindrical candle with a diameter of 6 cm, you will need a wick for candles up to 6 cm in diameter.
If your candle is symmetrical, you will evaluate the diameter of the base.

Does the wick have a direction?

The flat wick does not have a direction, while the round wick does. On the flattened part, you can see a “V” shape. That will be the top part of the wick.

4. About colours and pigments

How can I check the amount of colour?

To check what the final colour of the candle will be, you can dip a few drops of melted wax into a container of cold water. The wax will solidify immediately and allow you to assess the colour. However, keep in mind that the finished candle will have a slightly more intense shade, as there is a larger amount of wax. It’s always best to add the dye gradually so you can adjust its intensity.

Does the candle colour fade?

If you have added a lot of dye, it is inevitable that some colour will transfer to whatever comes into contact with it, such as the base or packaging. For this reason, we recommend that you protect the candle, if it has intense colours, with the lacquer specifically for candles or by dipping it in pure paraffin.

5. Choosing the right mould

The more resistant the mould is to temperature, the higher the melting temperature will be, and the better the result.

The greater the difference between the ambient temperature and the melting temperature:

The wax will contract more as it cools
The candle will come out of the mould more easily
The candle will be more compact, smooth, and shiny
There will be fewer residues in the mould.

Beeswax candles are more difficult to remove from the mould, so it’s better to use conical or pyramidal moulds or two-part or flexible silicone moulds.

Naturally, the more asymmetrical the mould is, the more problematic it will be, both for removing the candle and for combustion, so it’s good to do some experimentation.

How much wax do I need for the mould?

Generally, just fill the mould with wax granules to have the amount you need. However, remember that wax shrinks as it cools, so calculate a bit more wax to top up the mould.

How much does wax shrink when it cools? For gel wax, the proportion is 1 litre = 750 g. Approximately, considering the volume, a standard glass holds 200 ml, so with 1 litre of gel wax, you can make about 5 glasses.

It is more difficult to calculate the amount of wax you need for dipped candles because the container must be full to fully immerse the candle.

6. Kits with everything you need to create candles at home

If you want to have everything you need, already selected and prepared, we have two kits for you.

The basic kit includes:

2 kg of wax blend
3 assorted colour pigment sticks
1 wax melting container
1 container tweezers
1 cylindrical mould
1 pack of 3m candle wick
1 pack of wax fragrance.

The deluxe kit is more complete and includes:

1 electric wax melter with 6 containers
1 container tweezers
10 kg of pre-mixed wax beads
3 packs of 50 g powder pigments in various colours
1 wax thermometer
1 pack of 50m candle wick
3 packs of wax fragrances
3 acrylic candle moulds, 1 cylinder, 1 square, and 1 sphere
1 pack of 250 ml candle lacquer
1 spray mould separator
1 book on candles.

7. Organising the workspace

Wax or dye stains are difficult to remove, so if you want to create candles at home, it’s best to carefully prepare the area where you will work. It’s better to cover the work surfaces with newspapers and the cooking surface with some sheets of aluminium.

Have everything you need within reach: melting container, wax, colours, fragrances, wick, moulds or containers, scissors, scrapers, thermometer, decorating elements.

In the third part of the guide, we will see in detail all the steps to create beautiful, fragrant candles made by your own hands!

Making Candles at Home Part 2: What Materials Do I Need?